Guide to Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
(Whether you’re spending a weekend or just passing through, here’s how to make the most of your trip.)
Tucked away in southern Utah, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument spans nearly 1.9 million acres, making it one of the largest and most remote protected areas in the U.S. This vast, rugged landscape is a haven for slot canyons, towering sandstone cliffs, and hidden waterfalls. Situated between Capitol Reef National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park, Escalante is a logical stop for anyone exploring Utah’s Mighty 5—but it’s far more than just a place to pass through. With world-class hiking, breathtaking scenic drives, and incredible small-town hospitality, it’s a destination worthy of a full trip in its own right. Whether you have a weekend to explore or are just passing through, this guide will help you make the most of your time in Escalante.
Just Passing Through? Here’s How to Make the Most of Your Drive
If you’re short on time but still want to experience the magic of Escalante, a scenic drive along Byway 12 paired with a few well-chosen stops will give you a taste of the region’s beauty and history. Even if you’re just passing through, this stretch of Utah is too stunning to simply drive past—plan for a few hours to soak it all in.
Start Your Journey at Kiva Coffeehouse
One of the most scenic coffee spots you’ll ever find, Kiva Coffeehouse is a must-stop for anyone driving through Escalante. Perched on a ridge with panoramic views of the Escalante River canyon, this architectural gem is as beautiful as its surroundings. The earth-toned stone walls, large windows, and curved design blend seamlessly into the landscape, making it a peaceful retreat from the road.
It’s the perfect place to grab a cup of locally roasted coffee and a homemade pastry or sandwich before continuing your drive. Sit on the patio, soak in the views, and savor the serenity of this remote slice of Utah. Whether you’re fueling up for the road ahead or just need a quiet moment, Kiva Coffeehouse is an experience, not just a stop.
Drive Scenic Byway 12: My Favorite Scenic Drive in the U.S.
I’ve driven a lot of scenic roads, but Scenic Byway 12 is hands-down my favorite. This 123-mile route, stretching from Panguitch near Bryce Canyon to Torrey near Capitol Reef, showcases some of the most diverse and jaw-dropping landscapes in Utah. Sweeping desert vistas, towering cliffs, and dramatic canyon views unfold around every turn—it’s a drive that makes you want to stop every five minutes just to take it all in.
One of the most thrilling sections of Byway 12 is Hell’s Backbone, a high, narrow ridge with steep drop-offs on both sides. If you have time for a detour, driving the Hell’s Backbone Road (best with a high-clearance vehicle) is an adventure in itself. Otherwise, enjoy the paved scenic route as it winds through the heart of Escalante’s backcountry.
Stretch Your Legs at Anasazi State Park Museum
For a quick but meaningful stop, Anasazi State Park Museum in the town of Boulder offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s early inhabitants. The Ancestral Puebloans (often called Anasazi) lived in this area for centuries, and this site preserves the remains of one of the largest known villages west of the Colorado River.
You can explore a reconstructed Puebloan dwelling, see artifacts excavated from the site, and learn how the native people thrived in this harsh yet beautiful environment. It’s a great way to connect with the history of the land you’re driving through, and it provides a welcome break to stretch your legs before continuing on your way.
Spending More Time? Base Yourself in Boulder for an Incredible Stay
If you have more than just a few hours, spending a night or two in Escalante is absolutely worth it. The area is home to some of the most stunning hikes and slot canyons in Utah, and the small town of Boulder makes for a fantastic home base. With a mix of luxurious yet rustic lodging, award-winning farm-to-table dining, and easy access to adventure, it’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day of exploring.
Stay at Boulder Mountain Lodge: A Peaceful Retreat in the Heart of Escalante
For a comfortable and scenic place to stay, Boulder Mountain Lodge is an excellent choice. This secluded retreat sits on a lush, tree-lined property with a pond, offering an oasis of calm in the middle of Utah’s rugged landscape. With spacious rooms, stunning views, and a tranquil atmosphere, it’s a favorite among travelers looking for a more relaxed, upscale experience in the area.
The lodge is conveniently located right next door to Hell’s Backbone Grill, meaning you can enjoy some of the best food in Utah without even having to get in your car. Plus, the lodge has a hot tub, hammocks, and a beautiful courtyard, making it the perfect place to rest up before heading out for your next adventure.
Hell’s Backbone Grill: A Legendary Farm-to-Table Dining Experience
No visit to Boulder is complete without a meal at Hell’s Backbone Grill & Farm, a nationally recognized restaurant that has become a destination in itself. Opened in 2000 by co-chefs and owners Blake Spalding and Jen Castle, this James Beard Award-finalist restaurant is dedicated to sustainable, locally sourced cuisine.
The restaurant is unique in that it sources much of its produce, herbs, and meat from its own organic farm, which sits just a few miles from the restaurant. The food is deeply connected to the land, featuring creative dishes inspired by the high desert environment.
What to Order:
- Black Powder Biscuits & Jam – A must-try if you come for breakfast or brunch.
- Blue Cornmeal Hotcakes – A nod to the region’s Indigenous roots, served with local honey butter.
- Local Lamb Posole – A hearty, flavorful dish showcasing the region’s best ingredients.
- Apple & Green Chile Pie – Because you should always save room for dessert!
Beyond the food, the restaurant has a warm, welcoming atmosphere and a strong commitment to sustainability, making every meal here an experience that goes beyond just eating—it’s about connecting with the land and the people who cultivate it.
Things to Do: Top Hikes in Escalante
Hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls: A Desert Oasis
One of the most iconic hikes in Grand Staircase-Escalante, Lower Calf Creek Falls leads to an incredible 126-foot waterfall, a rare sight in the desert. This 6-mile round-trip hike is moderately challenging, primarily due to sandy sections, and typically takes about 3 to 4 hours to complete. The trail meanders alongside Calf Creek, with opportunities to spot ancient Fremont culture pictographs adorning the canyon walls. As you approach the falls, the canyon narrows, providing shaded relief before revealing the breathtaking cascade plunging into a cool, inviting pool—perfect for a refreshing dip after the trek.
Peekaboo and Spooky Slot Canyons: A True Desert Adventure
For those seeking a thrilling, hands-on hiking experience, the Peekaboo and Spooky Slot Canyons offer an unforgettable adventure through twisting, narrow sandstone passages.
Getting There:
Accessing these slot canyons requires a drive down Hole-in-the-Rock Road, a 26-mile unpaved stretch known for its washboard texture and occasional sandy patches. While the road is generally passable for most vehicles in dry conditions, a high-clearance vehicle is recommended to navigate the rough terrain comfortably. It’s essential to check current road conditions before your trip, as inclement weather can render the road impassable.
The Hike:
- Trailhead: From the parking area, the trail descends steeply over slick rock, marked by cairns, leading into the wash that accesses the slot canyon. Read more about finding trailhead on Visit Utah.
- Peekaboo Slot Canyon: The entrance requires a 12-foot climb, after which hikers are rewarded with a labyrinth of arches and winding passages. The canyon’s playful name reflects its numerous openings and hidden chambers.
- Spooky Slot Canyon: True to its name, Spooky is narrower, with sections tightening to just 10 inches wide, demanding hikers to navigate sideways. The canyon’s tight passages and occasional obstacles make for an exhilarating experience.
Tips for Exploring Peekaboo & Spooky:
- Loop Route: Many hikers combine both canyons into a loop, starting with Peekaboo and exiting through Spooky, covering approximately 3.5 miles.
- Avoid Wet Conditions: Never enter slot canyons if there’s a forecast of rain, as they are susceptible to flash floods.
- Physical Preparedness: Be ready for scrambling, tight squeezes, and minor climbing challenges.
- Navigation: Carry a map or GPS, as trails can be faint, and it’s easy to get disoriented.
Why Escalante Deserves a Spot on Your Itinerary
Whether you’re just passing through on Scenic Byway 12 or spending a few days hiking, dining, and exploring, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument offers some of the most breathtaking and remote landscape in Utah. From the towering cliffs of Calf Creek Falls to the twisting slot canyons of Peekaboo and Spooky, this region is an adventurer’s paradise. Add in incredible farm-to-table dining at Hell’s Backbone Grill, the cozy retreat of Boulder Mountain Lodge, and the rich history at Anasazi State Park Museum, and you’ve got a destination that’s well worth more than just a quick stop.
Planning a trip to Escalante—or anywhere in Utah’s stunning national parks? Let me take the stress out of the details! As a custom travel planner, I can craft a seamless itinerary tailored to your interests, whether you want to hit the best hikes, find hidden gems, or experience the most scenic drives without the guesswork. Get in touch today, and let’s make your dream adventure a reality!